New holland boomer 3045 service manual free download

Extensive works not described in the New Holland Boomer , and Workshop Manual will gladly be executed for you by your dealer. Only genuine spare parts guarantee the same quality, duration, and safety as original parts, as they are the same parts that are assembled during standard production. You must be logged in to post a review. There are no reviews yet. Categories: New Holland , Tractor.

Sections of the Manual The Manual is divided into main groups and subgroups, and covers any previous version of the New Holland Boomer , and manual.

Repair and Parts Boomer , and Tractor When carrying any repair or maintenance on the Tractor ensure you read the safety guideline beforehand.

Inspect the prechamber for carbon deposits and looseness. Remove any carbon deposits found. If prechamber is found to be loose, cylinder head may be warped. Use a straight edge and a feeler gauge and check the cylinder head for warp lengthwise, crosswise, and diagonally. Examine the valve seats and surface the seat if damaged. Valve seat grinding requires that the seat be ground to the correct width and properly positioned.

A valve that extends too deep into the combustion area will result in valve burning. If the valve is recessed too deep into the head it will cause a rapid build-up of carbon deposits. Check the seat for surface defects. Grind away only enough material to provide a smooth even seat. Check the seat width. NOTE: Refacing the seat should always be coordinated with refacing of the valve to ensure a compression tight fit.

Inspect the condition of the valves and discard any that are badly burned, cracked, or bent. If inspection indicates that the valve may be reused, the valve should be ground. After grinding the valve and seat, check to ensure the seat contacts the center of the valve face. Using Prussian Blue, lightly coat the valve seat, place the valve in position and rotate the valve slightly while holding a light pressure against the valve.

If the blue is transferred to the center of the valve face, the contact is correct. If Prussian Blue is not available, mark the valve face or seat, 1, with a soft lead pencil. Rotate the valve slightly in the seat. The penciled lines will be broken at the seat contact area. Thoroughly clean the valve guides before attempting to check internal wear. Using a telescoping gauge and micrometer, measure the valve guide bore at the top and bottom wear points, 1. Determine the valve stem to valve guide clearance, 1, by subtracting the valve stem diameter from the valve guide diameter.

Replace valves if the clearance, 1, is more than 0. Replace the cylinder head if excessive clearance is determined and the valves have met all specified measurement requirements. Place the valve springs on a flat surface. Measure the free length of the spring and squareness. Replace springs that do not meet the following specifications all models : Max. Out of Square. Place the springs in a suitable spring load tester and measure the spring load rating.

Replace springs that do not meet the following specifications all models : Standard. Thread an 8 mm bolt, 1, into the rear end of the rocker shaft, 2, and slowly withdraw the rocker shaft while at the same time removing the rocker arms and springs.

Inspect the rocker arms, 3, and shaft for wear or damage. Check the adjusting screws for damaged threads or excessive wear. Check the valve stem contact area for pitting or excessive wear. Slight wear patterns may be removed using a fine grit oil stone. NOTE: The rocker shaft housing must be removed from the cylinder head, before rocker shaft can be removed from housing. Housing mounting bolts retain rocker shaft. Using an outside micrometer, measure the wear points, 1, on the rocker shaft.

Replace the rocker shaft if the wear at any point exceeds 0. Using a telescoping gauge and micrometer, measure the inside of the rocker arm. Replace rocker arms having a bore diameter exceeding NOTE: Rocker arms have no bushings and only one lube hole. Check the push rods for straightness by rolling on a flat surface. Replace rods that are bent. Inspect the ends of the push rods for excessive wear.

If any push rod is worn, the corresponding lifter and rocker arm should also be inspected for excessive wear. Insert each valve in the guide from which it was removed and lightly lap the valve to be sure of an even seat around the valve face. Remove the valve and remove all traces of lapping compound. Install new intake valve seals on the valve guides using a suitable driver. Using a spring compressor, assemble the valves, springs, retainers, and keepers.

Inspect the cylinder block top face for cracks, damage, and warping in the same way as for the cylinder head.

Replace the cylinder block if warp is greater than 0. Visually inspect the cylinder bore. There should be no scoring, rust, or corrosion. Using a telescoping gauge in line with the crankshaft, measure the inside diameter of the top of the bore approximately 15 mm [0. Repeat this measurement at right angles to the crankshaft at the same distance. In line with the crankshaft at the bottom of the bore, measure approximately mm [4. If any of the measurements taken indicate worn or damaged cylinder bores, replace engine block with a long block assembly.

NOTE: If the cylinder bore measures Remove the wrist pin, 1, retaining rings and drive the wrist pin out of the piston using suitable drift, 2. Wash the pistons and connecting rods in a suitable solvent and air dry. Using a groove cleaner, remove the carbon deposits from the ring grooves. Be careful to avoid cutting any metal from either side or the bottom of the grooves.

Inspect the piston ring lands for excessive wear. Use a new ring, 1, and feeler gauge, 2, to check the ring side clearance. Replace pistons having a ring side clearance exceeding the following dimensions:. Using a micrometer, check the piston diameter at 90 degrees from the wrist pin bore.

Replace pistons that are worn to less than the following dimensions: Model. Using a telescoping gauge and a micrometer, measure the piston pin bore and the wrist pin diameter. Pin Diameter: Clearance: 0. NOTE: In some instances the wrist pin diameter may be equal to or slightly larger than the wrist pin bore.

This interference fit is normal. Position the piston rings, 1, one at a time, in the cylinder to the lowest point of travel. Use an inverted piston to square the ring in the bore. The ring is shown at the top of its travel for clarity. Replace worn rings with end gap clearance in excess of 1. Check the connecting rods for damage and alignment. Place each rod in an alignment fixture to check for bent or twisted condition.

Bend: 0. Twist: 0. Using a telescoping gauge and a micrometer, measure the inside diameter of the connecting rod wrist pin bushing. Remove and install the connecting rod wrist pin bushings using a suitable driver and press a new bushing into the rod bore. Ream and hone the bushing to the following finish size. When installing a new piston pin bushing, use the hole in the rod and drill a lube hole in the new bushing.

Install the connecting rod on the crankshaft and measure the play in shaft direction. If the play is more than 0. Cut a piece of plastigauge, 1, to the same width as the bearing. Place it on the crankshaft.

Avoid the oil hole. Install the rod cap and torque to Remove the rod cap and measure the width of the flattened plastigauge using the plastigauge scale. The width of the widest flattened plastigauge is the minimum clearance and the width of the narrowest plastigauge is the greatest clearance. Select the proper size bearing liners to obtain the correct clearance. Assembly 1. Install the piston pin, and retaining rings.

Using a suitable ring expander tool, install the piston rings positioning the ring gaps at approximately degrees from each other. Install the third oil ring first as follows: Put the expander ring, 1, into position in its groove. Fit the outer oil ring, 2, into position in its groove, while making sure the outer oil ring gap is diametrically opposite to the joint on the expander ring, 1.

Remove the two retaining bolts from the bearing holders, 1. Position a piece of plastigauge across the full width of the bearing liners. Install the bearing holder and tighten the bolts to NOTE: Do not permit the bearing holder to rotate, even the slightest amount. Remove the bearing holders and measure the width of the flattened plastigauge using the gauge printed on the plastigauge package. Replace components or grind the crankshaft to the next undersize bearing as required to obtain the correct clearance.

Check the thrust washer for wear, poor contact, burning, or other defects. Using a micrometer measure the washer thickness. If washer thickness is not within allowable limits or found to be defective, the washers must be replaced. Standard Thickness:. Inspect the crankshaft gear teeth for wear or damage and replace if necessary. Using a dial indicator, measure the crankshaft journals for size, runout, and tapper.

The amount of tapper in a journal is the difference in the measurements taken at points 1 and 2 on a journal. NOTE: The smallest reading taken at any one of the readings indicates the size of the journal. NOTE: Undersize bearings are available in 0. Mount the crankshaft in a set of V-blocks and measure the amount of runout using a dial indicator.

Straighten or replace crankshafts that exceed runout specifications. Check the bearing bushing for peeling, melting, seizure, or poor contact. Using a telescoping gauge and micrometer, measure the oil clearance between the bearing bushing and the crankshaft journal. Measure the inside diameters at positions 1 and 2. At each position, measure in both directions 3 and 4. The oil clearance can be obtained by subtracting this value from the maximum crankshaft journal diameter.

If the oil clearance exceeds 0. In this case, use an undersized bearing bushing. Replacement 1. Remove the bearing from the front of the cylinder block housing using a bushing driving tool to prevent damage. Inspect the bushing scratches, or damage. The bushing should be smoothly pressed into the correct depth by using a bushing driving tool, aligning the oil hole, and direction of bushing.

NOTE: Do not press the bushing into the cylinder block from the opposite side. NOTE: The correct pressing side is chamfered, etc. Install the bearing holders, 1, along with their liners. The rear bearing is also assembled along with the thrust bearing halves, one located on each side of the bearing. Be sure the bearing holders are correctly positioned on the shaft with the chamfered edge facing forward.

Torque the bearing holder retaining bolts to Position thrust bearings with oil grooves, 4, facing outward from bearing holders.

Position thrust bearing with oil grooves, 7, facing outward from bearing holder. Using special Tool No. Align the set screws, 2, of the puller, 1, with the counterbores in the collars and tighten.

Using a sliding hammer, 3, remove the port block. Remove plate, 4, from the block. Installation 1. Assemble the oil pump shaft to the port block using nut and washer. Insert the port block assembly into the installer and place on the guide pins. Using a suitable driver, install the port block assembly. The installer must bottom against the engine block when fully positioned.

NOTE: Plate, 4 fig. Check the timing gears for wear and damage on the contact area. Replace if any defect is found. Measure the backlash of gears with a feeler gauge or dial indicator. If the allowable limit is exceeded, replace all timing gears.

Using a gear puller, remove the gear assembly, 2, spacer, 3, spacers, 4, spacer gear, 5, bearing, 6, and key, 7, from the camshaft, 8. Place the camshaft in a set of V-blocks and check the runout using a dial indicator, 1. Replace or straighten the camshaft if the runout is greater than 0. Using a micrometer, measure the height of the camshaft lobes. Replace the camshaft if any of the cam lobes are worn to less than the following dimensions: Valve Lobe: Injection Pump Lobe: Install bearing, 1, two spacers, 2, spacer gear, 3, and spacer, 4, on camshaft, 5.

NOTE: The spacer gear, 5, serves as a spacer only. There is no other purpose for this gear. Insert key, 6, into key slot on shaft and press the gear assembly, 7, over the shaft onto the key. Inspect the ring gear for cracked, broken, chipped, or worn gear teeth. If found damaged, replace the ring gear. If necessary, remove the starter ring gear using a hammer and chisel to crack the ring gear. Be careful not to overheat the ring gear teeth. Use a temperature sensitive crayon to mark the inside of the ring gear.

Quench the ring gear quickly to obtain a good shrink fit onto the flywheel. Remove the front oil seal, 1, from the timing gear cover, 2, and insert a new oil seal in its place. Remove the steering pump seal, 3, located on the front of the timing gear cover, and replace with a new seal. Install the crankshaft with bearing holder through the rear of the cylinder block. Align the threaded holes on the bearing holders with the bolt holes in the cylinder block.

At the flywheel end install the two socket head hex bolts, at each center bearing install the hex head bolt. Using a dial indicator, measure the crankshaft end float thrust. If the thrust is not within the allowable limit, remove the crankshaft and check the thrust washers. Standard Thrust. Install the rear oil seal, 1, over the rear of the crankshaft.

NOTE: The rear oil seal is a press fit retained by the backplate. Fit the flywheel, 1, to the crankshaft, 2, and align the bolt holes.

Coat the bearing faces, pistons, and piston rings with clean engine oil. Slide the piston rings to permit a sufficient amount of oil to be applied in the grooves. Set the piston ring gaps 90 degrees apart from each other. Do not position these gaps toward the piston pin or the right angle of the pin. Using a piston ring compressor, 1, insert the pistons in the cylinders with the prechamber side of the piston facing the injection pump side.

The connecting rod marks should also face the injection pump side. NOTE: Install the pistons from the front to the rear in order. Install the connecting rod caps, 1, making sure the rod and cap matching marks align.

Tighten the connecting rod nuts, 2, to ft. NOTE: After installation, ensure the crankshaft moves freely. Ensure the axial play of 0. Position the cylinder block with the oil pan mounting surface facing down. Position the No. IMPORTANT: When positioning balancer assembly for installation to engine, be sure balancer weights are oriented with weights down towards oil pan flats on weights should be facing as shown.

With the balancer weights centered straight down weights facing away from engine block , position the balancer assembly, 1, and the original quantity of shims, 2 if used on the cylinder block, 3, using the dowel pins for alignment.

Install the retaining bolts, 4, and tighten to 49 Install the oil transfer pipe, 5, and secure with the banjo bolts, 6. NOTE: If required, inspect the backlash between the balancer gear and the drive gear. Adjust the backlash to 0. Balancer Shims Engine. Install a new O-ring on the suction pipe, 1, and rotate the suction pipe into its bore.

Install the suction strainer over the suction pipe and align the bolt holes. NOTE: If suction strainer bolt holes do not align, the suction pipe is either too far into its bore or not in far enough. Adjust as needed. Install the strainer retaining bolts and tighten to 8.

Apply a thin coat of gasket sealer to the oil sump sealing area. Install a new gasket, the oil sump and the retaining bolts. Tighten the retaining bolts, 1, diagonally and evenly.

Install the front plate, 1, and gasket on the mounting dowels and tighten the retaining bolts. Carefully insert the camshaft into its bore so as not to damage the bearings or bearing surfaces. Align the retaining plate, 2, to the block bolt holes, and install the retaining bolts, 3.

Tighten the bolts to 8. Align the timing marks, 1, on the idler gear, 2, crankshaft gear, 3, and the camshaft gear, 4. Complete the installation of the oil pump and adjust axial clearance. NOTE: Do not turn the crankshaft until the timing gear cover is installed. Install new cover gasket. Insert the governor linkage through the block. Rotate the oil pump cover to position the spring pin hole, 5 fig. Install cover locating pin in the oil pump cover plate.

Install the cover retaining bolts, 1. Align the keyway on the crankshaft pulley, 1, and the crankshaft, 2. Push the pulley onto the shaft. Install the retaining nut, 3, and torque to Insert the injection pump, 1, and shim in position in the block.

Connect the injection pump control rack and governor link with the snap pin, 2. Push the injection pump, 1, onto its mounting studs, 3, and install the retaining nuts and bolts. Mount the hydraulic oil pump, 1, on the timing case cover, and install the retaining studs, 2. Mount the power steering pump in position on the timing gear cover with two retaining bolts not shown , and two retaining nuts, 1.

For service replacement, head gaskets of different thickness are available. The correct head gasket must be selected based upon the amount the piston protrudes above the face of the block when at top dead center. The correct head gasket usage is determined as follows: 1. Position each of the pistons at top dead center and, using a dial indicator, determine the distance each piston projects above the face of the block. NOTE: Measure each of the pistons while holding a slight down pressure on the piston.

Use the dimension taken from the cylinder which has the greatest projection and select a head gasket as indicated in the following chart. NOTE: The variation in the amount of protrusion among all pistons must be within 0. Selection Chart Model.

Select the proper head gasket and place it on the block with the side marked with the last four digits of the part code no. Tighten the head bolts in the sequence as shown. Replace the push rods and valve stem caps in their original location.

Adjustment 1. Adjust the rocker arm to valve clearance. Be sure the tappet is in its lowest position before making the adjustment. To be sure the tappet is in its lowest position, bring the piston to top dead center on the compression stroke both valves closed.

Loosen the nut and adjust the clearance of both the intake and exhaust valves to 0. Install a new gasket, 1, and position the valve cover, 2, over the rocker arms. NOTE: The banjo bolt has oil port holes drilled in it. Do not use a standard bolt in its place. Install the fuel return line, 1, on the injectors, 2, and injection pump, 3.

Install the V-belt, 3, adjust to 10 -- 15 mm 0. The oil pump is driven by the crankshaft gear. Oil is picked up from the sump through the suction strainer and intake tube and drawn into the lower side drilling in the block to the oil pump.

Oil from the pump flows through passages in the block, past the relief valve, through the oil filter and returns to the main oil gallery in the area of the drilled bolt located on the side of the block.

Oil flow in the main oil gallery extends to the four main bearings. Oil flow to the main bearings passes through drilled passages in the. The remaining portion of the oil flow is directed through the external tube to the rocker arm assembly.

Oil flows from the external tube into a passage in the rocker arm bracket to the rocker arm shaft. Oil leakage from clearance between the rocker arms and the shaft overflows in the valve cover and lubricates the valve stems, push rods, and tappets.

The relief valve is mounted on the side of the engine block and intersects the main oil passage. When the oil pressure exceeds the rated pressure, oil is bypassed through the relief valve directly to the sump. The cylinder walls, pistons, and piston pins are splash lubricated by the crankshaft.

Construction and Function These engines utilize a cartridge type filter. Pressurized oil flow from the pump enters from 1, and is filtered by a full flow filter before discharge through 2. When the full flow filter is clogged, the safety valve, 3, opens to bypass the oil.

When installing a new filter, coat its face with clean oil. Hand tighten only. Drain the radiator and remove the cooling fan and water pump assemblies. Remove the timing gear cover. Remove the retaining ring, 1. Remove the idler gear, 8, and oil pump assembly, 1 through Inspection 1. Check for excessive wear on the pump cover, 5, and the port block. Inspect the pump shaft and rotor, 6, for excessive wear or scratches. Measure the rotor to vane clearance. Replace the components as required, if clearance is not within specified tolerances.

If the port block assembly was removed, install a new port block assembly. Install the thrust washer, 1, pin, 2, and align the set marks on the idler gear, 3, crankshaft gear, and camshaft gear, and install the idler gear on the port shaft.

Install the oil pump cover, 6, shim, 7, spring, 8, and collar, 9. Secure the assembly to the shaft with the retaining ring, Using a dial indicator, 1, measure the axial movement of the collar, 6. The standard clearance is 0.

Install the water pump and cooling fan assembly. Install the timing gear cover. Refill the radiator to its proper coolant level. Replace the engine oil filter and fill the sump with oil. Install the oil pressure test fitting No. NH, 1, and test gauge, 2. Start the engine and observe gauge indicator. Gauge should indicate between 0. NOTE: Pressure test should be with engine at normal operating temperature.

If the gauge did not indicate the oil pressure within specified tolerances at low and high idle, troubleshoot the lube oil system. Installation Install a new O-ring seal over the relief valve and screw the valve into the block.

Tighten to Change the engine oil and filter. Run the engine for 2 minutes. Check the dipstick and add oil, if required, so the level is at the full mark. Fill the fuel tank with fuel.

Record fuel consumption in liters gallons , oil added in liters gallons , and hour reading. Record fuel and oil use for hours of operation, which is the recommended oil change interval. Check the dipstick before running the engine each day.

The maximum allowable oil consumption is 0. The following table gives examples: Fuel Consumption, Liters Gallons. If the oil consumption is greater than 0.

A sample calculation for oil consumption follows:. The coolant is drawn from the bottom of the radiator by the water pump and passes around the cylinders and into the cylinder head.

When the thermostat is open, the coolant flows from the water outlet connection to the top tank of the radiator for maximum cooling. The thermostat is located in the front of the cylinder head and thermostatically controls the flow of coolant from the engine to the radiator.

When the thermostat is closed only a small amount of coolant is permitted. Cooling occurs as the coolant passes down through the radiator cores which are exposed to the air flow created by the fan as air is drawn through the radiator.

It is dangerous to remove the cap from a hot engine or while the engine is running. Always shut the engine off and allow it to cool before removing the radiator cap. When removing the cap, use a thick cloth to cover the cap and slowly turn the cap to the first stop to allow pressure to escape before removing the cap completely.

Clean the cooling system to remove rust, sludge, and other foreign material by using a coolant system cleaning solvent. In severe cases, pressure flushing may be required. A pulsating or reverse flow flushing will more effectively loosen and remove foreign material than a steady flushing in normal direction of coolant flow. If pressure flushing is to be used, always remove the thermostat and make sure the head bolts are tightened properly.

Drain and flush the cooling system every twelve months and replace the coolant with fresh antifreeze and pure water. After the coolant has been drained from the radiator and block, flush the system by placing a water hose in the radiator filler neck. With the drain open and the system full of water, start the engine and run it until the water flowing from the drain is clear.

The pressure valve permits a limited pressure buildup in the cooling system as the coolant heats up. This increased pressure increases the boiling point of the coolant. If excess pressure builds up in the system, the pressure relief valve will open until the pressure returns to the proper level, 0.

When the engine is shut off and the coolant cools, a vacuum condition is created in the system. A vent valve in the radiator cap opens to permit outside air pressure to enter the system when this condition exists.

In this position the thermostat is able to sense the coolant temperature in the engine and regulate the flow of coolant to the radiator. When the engine is cold, only a small amount of coolant flows to the radiator through the thermostat bypass.

As the engine warms up, the thermostat opens to allow sufficient coolant flow to the radiator to maintain a constant engine temperature. The impeller circulates water by centrifugal force.

Coolant entering the pump housing from the radiator through the lower hose is thrown outward against the housing with sufficient force to cause a circulating action. The cooling fan is positioned behind the radiator to draw air over the radiator cooling fins. To increase and concentrate the volume of air flowing through the radiator, a shroud is positioned around the fan.

Drain the radiator coolant at tap, 1, and engine block at petcock, 2, in a clean container. Remove the radiator cap to assist draining. Loosen the clamp, 1, on the air inlet hose, 2. Remove the inlet hose, 2, from the air cleaner, 3. Loosen and remove the radiator mounting bolt, 1, from the radiator, 2.

Repeat for the opposite side. Is this a trial or a limited version? Instant download means no shipping charges or waiting for paper or CD manuals to arrive at the mail. You will receive this manual by completing the payment via our secure payment processor immediately. We imply on the importance of choosing the apt service manual. You will surely enjoy browsing through the pages and learning how to keep your vehicle in order.

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